Mexican Happenings March 2010
April 11th, 2010
The Playa Blanca/Loma Bonita News
March 10th, 2010The Playa Blanca/Loma Bonita News
Strangely enough, the earthquake on February 27th in Chile produced the ‘best test’ of our newly formed Security Committee’s communication plan. The huge movement of the plates not only leveled cities and towns in Chile but also created a huge surge in the Pacific which gathered momentum as it raced northward. An early text message alerted us to the pending possibility of a tsunami wave heading up the Pacific. We were directed to log on to the Amigos de Playa Blanca group site on the internet for more information. Jim and Otto immediately plunked away at their computers to access weather related sites and were rapidly exchanging information and calculations as to when, and if, the tsunami would hit the West Coast of Mexico. All predictions were that the surge would pass Alcapulco around 10 am or so, making it roughly around 11 that the Playa Blanca would see a surge depending upon the capriciousness of the wind and the waves. The beaches, homes, condominiums, and bungalows were evacuated rapidly, and suddenly we had company on the high ground of Loma Bonita – located about one kilometer inland. People arrived with pets, important papers, computers, and good humor. We had friends who sought refuge and brought new acquaintances who were . intrigued with what lay behind the gate on the much traveled Los Achotes marked by the little wooden Loma Bonita sign. What a surprise for our new beachfront friends to experience the tranquility and wildlife on the other side of the road. We snacked, drank and talked until the danger had passed; and most of all, the members of the Security Committee silently celebrated that our plans for rapid communication of community members worked extremely well. P.S. As you probably know by now, the surge veered west and headed toward Hawaii.
P.P.S. Fortunately our daughter, Kat, who had been traveling in Argentina and other parts of South America since January had headed home to Portland, Oregon several days before.
March has come in with a lion’s share of increased activity and productivity on the ranch. Jim’s drainage system is complete and works well! Jim has moved onto designing shutters for the windows and the rooftop edges so that when the rains come in sideways in the middle of the night during the summer rainy season, it will be more secure. Jim met with Rafael to come up with an estimate for having a crew of men work with Jim to build what will be folding shutters that can be pulled tight from within the house as well as to finally make the roof and sides of the outdoor shower before our oldest and youngest daughters arrive in mid-March. I think we’ll be cutting it pretty close as to whether this work will be underway by then, though Jim has already begun the laborious tasks of sanding and treating the rafters and sleepers which will support the tejas/tiles. Otto is busily installing conduit to conceal the many wires that run from the alarm system and to the new lighting. Both seem to enjoy the camaraderie of working together, but apart on separate projects, that slowly improve the amenities of Casa Loma Bonita.
The welcome arrival of James Maddock and Scott Parker, additional Loma Bonita landowners, have given us a small taste of what community could be once more homes are built. James is a retired welder/mechanic from Mendocino whose enthusiasm for making improvements on the property is much appreciated as well as his sharing of fun and fond memories of my brother, Roger. Scott is a structural engineer in Petaluma who hopes to eventually be able to work out of Zihau via computer. Exciting and tantalizing conversations of what could and should be in our futures has peppered dinner conversations as well as drop-in talks. So the dream still lives.
We went to a lecture at the Refugio given by Professor Melendez from the college that has sponsored the ecological research in our area. The Barra de Potosí area has just now been recognized as one of this nation’s natural treasures; however, virtually no studies have been done of the diversity of the area. For the past three years, his students have begun the ‘count’ or survey of the animals, birds, and fauna of the Barra de Potosí. Dr. Melendez presented his students’ findings and quantified them. For a great summary of the talk as well as pictures, check out the blog entry written by Dona Mariposa aka the talented do-all friend, Barbara Erickson at www.elrefugiodepetosi.org Of course the richness of the diversity was no big news to us, as we witness the wealth of living animals and plants each day.
We continue to have couples over for dinner, which expands my repertoire of Mexican/American dishes considerably as well as my garden. In addition to the Watson’s 25 or more cuttings of the staple Palerma plant which are four feet high, with variegated lime green and yellow bent fronds which wave in the breeze like an unruly child’s head shaking “NO!”, we’ve also received agave madrosa (sort of a burgundy bi-colored plant with flowers at the base), a kapi, which is a coconut-less palm that grows straight and true like a royal palm, but smaller, and several miniature palm-leafed plants. Susan bought two sicas in pots, plus tulipanne/hibiscus and an orange flowered shrub that the butterflies and hummingbirds enjoy. And yes, we are still adding to the cactus garden out front. After the heavy rains, the robolo and primavera trees produce an early display of their gold and magenta blossoms. Looking out from the observation tower at El Refugio, the landscape looked like someone had spattered the countryside. We eat out frequently and join friends mostly at beach spots to watch the sunset – which never ceases to delight and inspire.
Cooking for company is much easier with my sous chef, Otto, who prepares wonderful hors d’oeuvres. He’s introduced me to the wonders of pasta de hojalore sort of a puff pastry dough one procures at Commercial Mexicano by asking at the bakery. He not only makes wonderful little crackers with parmesan or caraway seeds, but also has engineered wonderful bases for what is now known as the ‘house dessert’ and has been requested by some of our invitees with an “Oh will you be making that dessert…”. He takes the pastry and rolls some very flat (with a discarded vodka bottle as we have no rolling pin), and the tops are made to rise, but not too much, with an ingenious use of two insides of large tart pans that are kept apart by flat-headed screws that have been sawed flat at the pointy end so that the two pieces of tin are held just far enough apart to let the dough rise into a rounded mound. My job is to present the confection which is filled with whipped cream mixed with my precious jar of lemon curd and a generous sprinkling of blueberries and raspberries. Otto also creates all sorts of intriguing fillings for the tiny puff pastry shells from combinations of : ham and fruit, cheese and tomato, mushrooms and onions, and various crab, kalamata olive mousse, etc. Sometimes it seems as though the refrigerator is standing at the ready for the next cocktail party as he tends to make things in large quantities! And his Cosmos are legendary..always concocted in batches of five the day before so that all ingredients will be at the same temperature. Jim is becoming quite an expert at grilling fish which I often purchase from local fisherman at the Barra.
Most of all, the dinners offer us a way to get to know people in a more intimate way as well as to repay the kindnesses of many wonderful invitations that have been extended to us. Bob and Jane Nagel from Denver as well as Bliss Point in Canada came to share his experience in setting up a corporation for the Casitas de Petosi, but conversation lingered over all the ways our paths has crossed beginning with Bob’s growing up on a farm in Illinois near my parent’s hometown of Galena. They are an older couple who travel far and wide. Bob recently fulfilled a lifelong goal to be a part of the Mardi Gras parade and was on a float dressed in an outrageous I Love Lucy costume throwing beads until his arm ached. Barbara Soulsby and Ian Niven from Vancouver live blocks away from my sister, and have a summer retreat on Reid Island next to Galliano where my sister, Sarah, has constructed ‘Upper Narnia’. Barbara worked as a social worker in Canada’s health system; while Ian immigrated from South Africa 30 years ago and bounced around the States and Canada with mechanical engineering opportunities. Barbara and I shared our thoughts and feelings regarding getting over the ‘hump’ of adjusting to life here until one has made firm connections with like minded souls. They have built the most charming and wonderful of homes on the Playa Blanca and it is always fun to visit their well-thought out dream home. Laurel Patrick stops by for dinner when she can pull herself away from the demands of the Refugio, and always delights us with tales of the next big challenge at this start-up venture. Last night, we spent much of the time considering how the sperm whale skeleton that they have found can best be mounted for a permanent demonstration. Right now, it is on the ground, still drying out the organisms within the bones, and visitors flock to see what is believed to be the only sperm whale skeleton in all of Mexico. Eventually, it will be mounted and welded together (James Maddock has offered his services here!). I much admire Laurel’s fine sense of scale that she so deftly inserts at every point in the Refugio and that the visitors seem to grasp. I love watching the children climb to the top of the observation tower and identify from afar where they live, and then descend and note close-up what is in their environment. Zoe and Gary Watson delight in the birdlife here which is very different from the freewheeling seabirds on the beach. Gary, always involved with a project on their beach home (the one we almost bought years ago) is now adding a separate bedroom and a larger kitchen for Zoe who is an accomplished cook (even without a conventional oven). Heretofore, Gary has built a new bodega, clever shutters, and many other amenities to this prow shaped home. In spite of the evolving changes as well as the pounding beach surf and wind, Zoe’s home is always immaculate. They are the mainstay of folks here year round, and the go-to couple with any questions. Barbara and Gunnar Erickson have finished their amazing ‘villa’ on the beach with a rather grand main home with a palapa/palm roof and an attached two-story structure as well as two casitas that personify elegance that are used for guests or as rentable bungalows. They spend half of their time here, and the other half in their home in San Miguel de Allende. Barbara’s talents and energy are legendary. Just this week we received a spiral bound copy of the guide to the Barra with entries for all services in both Spanish and English. Such an intriguing sampling of the folks we’ve come to know in this Mexican adventure.
I try to schedule a drive into Zihaut to coincide with picking Patricio up from school when possible. It is great fun to have this lively 7 year old all to myself and he is quite adept at engaging conversation and always has a joke that he translate in his head from Spanish to English on my behalf. Last time he asked if I head heard about the little boy and his grandmother. Without pausing for my response, he went on to charm me with the little boy dropped his lollipop and as he picked it up and prepared to enjoy it once again, the grandmother said, “Oh no, you can’t have that, for Diablo (the devil) has licked it”. The next time they were together, he dropped a cookie, and before he could rescue it, his grandmother again cautioned him of the dangers of the devil licking the cookie. On their third venture out, the grandmother fell and cried out for her grandson to help her up, whereupon the boy said, I can’t for Diablo has licked you!” On this particular trip home we brought Ivette’s (his mother’s) new bike home in our larger car, and Patricio was beside himself with the rides that they could now take together down the road on the Playa.
As mentioned before, the in-party for the political groups in Mexico uses the color green as its symbol. And now that all the major buildings have undergone the transformation from yellow to green, new green paint is decorating every footbridge over the main highways, every bridge, and every fence. Perhaps this is the way for the political party in power to assure that they keep their campaign promise of more jobs …at least for those who are painters and produce the paint! The hundreds of ficus trees that divide the road along the Route 200 into are no longer in the fanciful, Disney-esque shapes but now conform to rather stiff, uniform lollipop shapes with beds of flowers underneath each one. The cities of Zihautanejo had hoped to increase tourism with Carnivales similar to Mardi Gras with vying events. Zihautanejo still has the vestiges of the celebratory week with 6 foot tall masks created from shiny fabrics in outrageous colors and patterns festooned with glittery baubles. Trees and parks were wrapped a la Cristos with bolts of bright colored fabric. They are still up in most places, but are loosing their initial impact as the wind and the sun has taken hold.
The unspoken tension between the Catholics and the Jehovah’s Witnesses in the villages that surround us continues to simmer, and sometimes erupt in bitter, violent fights.. It seems that every village suddenly has a large Salon de Reino de Jehova Testigo with air conditioning, manicured grounds and the promise of jobs that are often linked with membership (e.g. a sawmill, a shop, etc) and many Mexicans are choosing to join this church. The divide comes first with the children who do not understand why their school friends and neighbors no longer are allowed to come to birthday parties or partake of the paradas/parades during religious festivals. The adults from each religion divide their loyalties to the Tiendas/small miscellaneous stores, hardware stores and other village amenities to those with whom they share church experiences. There has been the slow emergence of superiority of the new religion whose members pride themselves on not drinking and being responsible so that they claim they are more employable. It is very disheartening to see how the religious practices have become so divisive.
Jim has launched a swimming program for us in preparation for our scuba dive on the 20th. He has chartered a covered boat with two dive instructors for the day to take us to the far side of the Playa Blanca for a scuba and snorkel expedition where the beaches are unreachable by land. So we’ve been swimming at the Barra (which is ever so salty since the salt flats in the lagoons spilled out to the sea several months behind schedule) with our masks and snorkels every other day. The visibility is poor, but every so often a school of fish swims around us, or a sting ray darts by or a fish hiding in the sand pokes through looking for its meal (not us!). I am still trying to kick more with my hips and thighs than with my bicycle-prone knees. Jim is in his element in the sea, while I am still at odds with this aquatic world.
We know that our time here this winter is drawing short, and we are looking forward to the arrival of Jen and Liz next week to complete our season here. Alas, they will arrive loaded down with much needed items to complete several projects as well as two scorpion lights which are the techie way to detect the ‘alacráns’ in nightly trips to the bathroom. Jim is eager to conduct a hunt! I am beginning to dream of the huge display of 500+ bulbs that were planted last fall in Pew Park. What a welcome sight that will be for those who endured an exceptionally snowy winter! Bienvenida la Primavera!
The Playa Blanca/Loma Bonita News
Strangely enough, the earthquake on February 27th in Chile produced the ‘best test’ of our newly formed Security Committee’s communication plan. The huge movement of the plates not only leveled cities and towns in Chile but also created a huge surge in the Pacific which gathered momentum as it raced northward. An early text message alerted us to the pending possibility of a tsunami wave heading up the Pacific. We were directed to log on to the Amigos de Playa Blanca group site on the internet for more information. Jim and Otto immediately plunked away at their computers to access weather related sites and were rapidly exchanging information and calculations as to when, and if, the tsunami would hit the West Coast of Mexico. All predictions were that the surge would pass Alcapulco around 10 am or so, making it roughly around 11 that the Playa Blanca would see a surge depending upon the capriciousness of the wind and the waves. The beaches, homes, condominiums, and bungalows were evacuated rapidly, and suddenly we had company on the high ground of Loma Bonita – located about one kilometer inland. People arrived with pets, important papers, computers, and good humor. We had friends who sought refuge and brought new acquaintances who were . intrigued with what lay behind the gate on the much traveled Los Achotes marked by the little wooden Loma Bonita sign. What a surprise for our new beachfront friends to experience the tranquility and wildlife on the other side of the road. We snacked, drank and talked until the danger had passed; and most of all, the members of the Security Committee silently celebrated that our plans for rapid communication of community members worked extremely well. P.S. As you probably know by now, the surge veered west and headed toward Hawaii.
P.P.S. Fortunately our daughter, Kat, who had been traveling in Argentina and other parts of South America since January had headed home to Portland, Oregon several days before.
March has come in with a lion’s share of increased activity and productivity on the ranch. Jim’s drainage system is complete and works well! Jim has moved onto designing shutters for the windows and the rooftop edges so that when the rains come in sideways in the middle of the night during the summer rainy season, it will be more secure. Jim met with Rafael to come up with an estimate for having a crew of men work with Jim to build what will be folding shutters that can be pulled tight from within the house as well as to finally make the roof and sides of the outdoor shower before our oldest and youngest daughters arrive in mid-March. I think we’ll be cutting it pretty close as to whether this work will be underway by then, though Jim has already begun the laborious tasks of sanding and treating the rafters and sleepers which will support the tejas/tiles. Otto is busily installing conduit to conceal the many wires that run from the alarm system and to the new lighting. Both seem to enjoy the camaraderie of working together, but apart on separate projects, that slowly improve the amenities of Casa Loma Bonita.
The welcome arrival of James Maddock and Scott Parker, additional Loma Bonita landowners, have given us a small taste of what community could be once more homes are built. James is a retired welder/mechanic from Mendocino whose enthusiasm for making improvements on the property is much appreciated as well as his sharing of fun and fond memories of my brother, Roger. Scott is a structural engineer in Petaluma who hopes to eventually be able to work out of Zihau via computer. Exciting and tantalizing conversations of what could and should be in our futures has peppered dinner conversations as well as drop-in talks. So the dream still lives.
We went to a lecture at the Refugio given by Professor Melendez from the college that has sponsored the ecological research in our area. The Barra de Potosí area has just now been recognized as one of this nation’s natural treasures; however, virtually no studies have been done of the diversity of the area. For the past three years, his students have begun the ‘count’ or survey of the animals, birds, and fauna of the Barra de Potosí. Dr. Melendez presented his students’ findings and quantified them. For a great summary of the talk as well as pictures, check out the blog entry written by Dona Mariposa aka the talented do-all friend, Barbara Erickson at www.elrefugiodepetosi.org Of course the richness of the diversity was no big news to us, as we witness the wealth of living animals and plants each day.
We continue to have couples over for dinner, which expands my repertoire of Mexican/American dishes considerably as well as my garden. In addition to the Watson’s 25 or more cuttings of the staple Palerma plant which are four feet high, with variegated lime green and yellow bent fronds which wave in the breeze like an unruly child’s head shaking “NO!”, we’ve also received agave madrosa (sort of a burgundy bi-colored plant with flowers at the base), a kapi, which is a coconut-less palm that grows straight and true like a royal palm, but smaller, and several miniature palm-leafed plants. Susan bought two sicas in pots, plus tulipanne/hibiscus and an orange flowered shrub that the butterflies and hummingbirds enjoy. And yes, we are still adding to the cactus garden out front. After the heavy rains, the robolo and primavera trees produce an early display of their gold and magenta blossoms. Looking out from the observation tower at El Refugio, the landscape looked like someone had spattered the countryside. We eat out frequently and join friends mostly at beach spots to watch the sunset – which never ceases to delight and inspire.
Cooking for company is much easier with my sous chef, Otto, who prepares wonderful hors d’oeuvres. He’s introduced me to the wonders of pasta de hojalore sort of a puff pastry dough one procures at Commercial Mexicano by asking at the bakery. He not only makes wonderful little crackers with parmesan or caraway seeds, but also has engineered wonderful bases for what is now known as the ‘house dessert’ and has been requested by some of our invitees with an “Oh will you be making that dessert…”. He takes the pastry and rolls some very flat (with a discarded vodka bottle as we have no rolling pin), and the tops are made to rise, but not too much, with an ingenious use of two insides of large tart pans that are kept apart by flat-headed screws that have been sawed flat at the pointy end so that the two pieces of tin are held just far enough apart to let the dough rise into a rounded mound. My job is to present the confection which is filled with whipped cream mixed with my precious jar of lemon curd and a generous sprinkling of blueberries and raspberries. Otto also creates all sorts of intriguing fillings for the tiny puff pastry shells from combinations of : ham and fruit, cheese and tomato, mushrooms and onions, and various crab, kalamata olive mousse, etc. Sometimes it seems as though the refrigerator is standing at the ready for the next cocktail party as he tends to make things in large quantities! And his Cosmos are legendary..always concocted in batches of five the day before so that all ingredients will be at the same temperature. Jim is becoming quite an expert at grilling fish which I often purchase from local fisherman at the Barra.
Most of all, the dinners offer us a way to get to know people in a more intimate way as well as to repay the kindnesses of many wonderful invitations that have been extended to us. Bob and Jane Nagel from Denver as well as Bliss Point in Canada came to share his experience in setting up a corporation for the Casitas de Petosi, but conversation lingered over all the ways our paths has crossed beginning with Bob’s growing up on a farm in Illinois near my parent’s hometown of Galena. They are an older couple who travel far and wide. Bob recently fulfilled a lifelong goal to be a part of the Mardi Gras parade and was on a float dressed in an outrageous I Love Lucy costume throwing beads until his arm ached. Barbara Soulsby and Ian Niven from Vancouver live blocks away from my sister, and have a summer retreat on Reid Island next to Galliano where my sister, Sarah, has constructed ‘Upper Narnia’. Barbara worked as a social worker in Canada’s health system; while Ian immigrated from South Africa 30 years ago and bounced around the States and Canada with mechanical engineering opportunities. Barbara and I shared our thoughts and feelings regarding getting over the ‘hump’ of adjusting to life here until one has made firm connections with like minded souls. They have built the most charming and wonderful of homes on the Playa Blanca and it is always fun to visit their well-thought out dream home. Laurel Patrick stops by for dinner when she can pull herself away from the demands of the Refugio, and always delights us with tales of the next big challenge at this start-up venture. Last night, we spent much of the time considering how the sperm whale skeleton that they have found can best be mounted for a permanent demonstration. Right now, it is on the ground, still drying out the organisms within the bones, and visitors flock to see what is believed to be the only sperm whale skeleton in all of Mexico. Eventually, it will be mounted and welded together (James Maddock has offered his services here!). I much admire Laurel’s fine sense of scale that she so deftly inserts at every point in the Refugio and that the visitors seem to grasp. I love watching the children climb to the top of the observation tower and identify from afar where they live, and then descend and note close-up what is in their environment. Zoe and Gary Watson delight in the birdlife here which is very different from the freewheeling seabirds on the beach. Gary, always involved with a project on their beach home (the one we almost bought years ago) is now adding a separate bedroom and a larger kitchen for Zoe who is an accomplished cook (even without a conventional oven). Heretofore, Gary has built a new bodega, clever shutters, and many other amenities to this prow shaped home. In spite of the evolving changes as well as the pounding beach surf and wind, Zoe’s home is always immaculate. They are the mainstay of folks here year round, and the go-to couple with any questions. Barbara and Gunnar Erickson have finished their amazing ‘villa’ on the beach with a rather grand main home with a palapa/palm roof and an attached two-story structure as well as two casitas that personify elegance that are used for guests or as rentable bungalows. They spend half of their time here, and the other half in their home in San Miguel de Allende. Barbara’s talents and energy are legendary. Just this week we received a spiral bound copy of the guide to the Barra with entries for all services in both Spanish and English. Such an intriguing sampling of the folks we’ve come to know in this Mexican adventure.
I try to schedule a drive into Zihaut to coincide with picking Patricio up from school when possible. It is great fun to have this lively 7 year old all to myself and he is quite adept at engaging conversation and always has a joke that he translate in his head from Spanish to English on my behalf. Last time he asked if I head heard about the little boy and his grandmother. Without pausing for my response, he went on to charm me with the little boy dropped his lollipop and as he picked it up and prepared to enjoy it once again, the grandmother said, “Oh no, you can’t have that, for Diablo (the devil) has licked it”. The next time they were together, he dropped a cookie, and before he could rescue it, his grandmother again cautioned him of the dangers of the devil licking the cookie. On their third venture out, the grandmother fell and cried out for her grandson to help her up, whereupon the boy said, I can’t for Diablo has licked you!” On this particular trip home we brought Ivette’s (his mother’s) new bike home in our larger car, and Patricio was beside himself with the rides that they could now take together down the road on the Playa.
As mentioned before, the in-party for the political groups in Mexico uses the color green as its symbol. And now that all the major buildings have undergone the transformation from yellow to green, new green paint is decorating every footbridge over the main highways, every bridge, and every fence. Perhaps this is the way for the political party in power to assure that they keep their campaign promise of more jobs …at least for those who are painters and produce the paint! The hundreds of ficus trees that divide the road along the Route 200 into are no longer in the fanciful, Disney-esque shapes but now conform to rather stiff, uniform lollipop shapes with beds of flowers underneath each one. The cities of Zihautanejo had hoped to increase tourism with Carnivales similar to Mardi Gras with vying events. Zihautanejo still has the vestiges of the celebratory week with 6 foot tall masks created from shiny fabrics in outrageous colors and patterns festooned with glittery baubles. Trees and parks were wrapped a la Cristos with bolts of bright colored fabric. They are still up in most places, but are loosing their initial impact as the wind and the sun has taken hold.
The unspoken tension between the Catholics and the Jehovah’s Witnesses in the villages that surround us continues to simmer, and sometimes erupt in bitter, violent fights.. It seems that every village suddenly has a large Salon de Reino de Jehova Testigo with air conditioning, manicured grounds and the promise of jobs that are often linked with membership (e.g. a sawmill, a shop, etc) and many Mexicans are choosing to join this church. The divide comes first with the children who do not understand why their school friends and neighbors no longer are allowed to come to birthday parties or partake of the paradas/parades during religious festivals. The adults from each religion divide their loyalties to the Tiendas/small miscellaneous stores, hardware stores and other village amenities to those with whom they share church experiences. There has been the slow emergence of superiority of the new religion whose members pride themselves on not drinking and being responsible so that they claim they are more employable. It is very disheartening to see how the religious practices have become so divisive.
Jim has launched a swimming program for us in preparation for our scuba dive on the 20th. He has chartered a covered boat with two dive instructors for the day to take us to the far side of the Playa Blanca for a scuba and snorkel expedition where the beaches are unreachable by land. So we’ve been swimming at the Barra (which is ever so salty since the salt flats in the lagoons spilled out to the sea several months behind schedule) with our masks and snorkels every other day. The visibility is poor, but every so often a school of fish swims around us, or a sting ray darts by or a fish hiding in the sand pokes through looking for its meal (not us!). I am still trying to kick more with my hips and thighs than with my bicycle-prone knees. Jim is in his element in the sea, while I am still at odds with this aquatic world.
We know that our time here this winter is drawing short, and we are looking forward to the arrival of Jen and Liz next week to complete our season here. Alas, they will arrive loaded down with much needed items to complete several projects as well as two scorpion lights which are the techie way to detect the ‘alacráns’ in nightly trips to the bathroom. Jim is eager to conduct a hunt! I am beginning to dream of the huge display of 500+ bulbs that were planted last fall in Pew Park. What a welcome sight that will be for those who endured an exceptionally snowy winter! Bienvenida la Primavera!
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February fun, politics and progress
February 25th, 2010So many kind messages from our friends and family who seem to be enduring a winter season full of extremes have ended with some envy of the ‘relaxing’ time we must be having during our stay in Mexico. If truth be told, we are putting much effort into moving this handmade house forward out of camping under a roof to a home with an increasing number of amenities.
Jim’s big engineering project has been to correct the drainage system after we witnessed the full force of the deluge of water during the three day storm. Trial number one was digging trenches where the water had naturally run. In spite of Jim’s caution and notation of where a sewer line intersected the ditch, Julio, the gardener/worker, punctured a hole in the pipe, and so Jim decided that it was better, faster and cheaper to complete the work himself. So now we have a very un-Mexican though aesthetic and functional drain embedded along the edge of the veranda that forces humungous amounts of water to flow through two long 4 inch diameter pipes and empty into the meadow. Success!
There have been many honey-do tasks to complete to keep Susan perking along. In fact, one whole day was spent installing curtain rods into the cement walls both over the two large bedroom doors and under all the sinks and counters in the bathrooms and kitchen. It was rather like a huge dental operation with either Susan or Otto holding the vacuum where Jim was drilling lying in some contorted position on his back to hammer-drill underneath the cabinets. Amtrak safety practices kept his eyes, ears and lungs healthy. Then Susan hung curtains that she had made previously or made them custom to order We have also added toilet paper holders attached to walls so that the wind blowing the rolls off the windowsills eliminates the endless game of ‘chase the paper rolls over the floor’. Best of all both ‘wings of the house are now screened in with parota wood frames and screening tight enough to foil a majority of the mosquitoes. Alas, our lovely arched windows are now covered on the outside with rectangular frames so that the beauty of the ironwork is not revealed until you are inside of the house. So plans are in the making to add shutters which can be closed during the rains and add some detail to the exterior of the house. We have decided not to go with the eyebrow roofs over each of the seven windows, as we love the views and the ever changing light throughout the day. Otto has been building tiny control boards with a mysterious mix of capacitors and resistors which flash off and on for the alarm system as well as perfecting the lighting in the great room. He has made the “Danish Modern” reflectors from sheet metal which blend in nicely and creates soft, indirect lighting at night..
We have had several friends to dinner, and in lieu of wine or other gifts, I am now asking for cuttings of plants that will survive in this dry, thorn forested area. Imagine my delight when Zoe and Gary appeared with a truck load of four foot tall, variegated bent leaf Paloma plants. Imagine Jim’s surprise when I planted 21, and he had only the final one to do! They look grand waving in the breeze!. To plant in Mexico, we learned that one chips away at a small hole, then fills it with water and once the water is absorbed, dig again til dry earth is reached, and then add more water. Add some ‘black’ dirt, then stick the plant in, and refill with the soil making a berm around the plant to hold future waterings. I also purchased two large Mexican clay pots and planted two Sica – the dark green ever green plants that thrive in the sun. Many of the plants in the cactus garden have had ‘pups’ and the Magueys {from which mescal is made) are now up to our shoulders!
Trips into Zihautanejo proper take more time than I like, but are necessary. The most intriguing change in Zihautanejo has been many of the buildings’ color change in response to the change in political government. Buildings that were heretofore in the yellow-orange family have now been completely redone in various shades of green to honor the ‘ruling’ party. So the mustard yellow Mercado (aka farmer’s market) is now lime green, and the orange hardware store is verdant green along with many other buildings currying political favor. It is always challenging and fun to find exactly which store has the item needed. Hardware stores are notorious for having special niches of certain items. I went to purchase a floor fan/ventilador and went into three electrical stores on one block where the same fan was offered at prices ranging from 650 to 980 pesos! Much of the street construction in Zihautanjo Centro has been completed and so the ‘smells’ of Zihautanejo from the aging sewer system seem to be under control. There is a more upscale street of pricey boutique shops near Playa Municipal that now sports wooden signs and an overhang to protect one from the sun. Susan managed to visit her favorite store La Embarcadero just as the owner Christina was unpacking her new load of finds from a trip to Oaxaca. Her Mexican wardrobe is expanding. There are many enterprising ventures sprouting up here and there in spite of the sagging economy. Tourism has been down for two years, and so the streets are less crowded and the aggressiveness of the street vendors is toned down a bit.
I try to plan a trip or two into Zihaut to dovetail into picking up our nephew, Patricio, from school at 2:15. His Dad, my brother, John is in the States completing a house in northern California in order to earn the dineros needed for his family, and so Ivette appreciates the break in not having to make two trips a day in and out of town. For me, it is a ½ hour with Patricio and a close to errands. The first trip home Patricio wanted to go the ‘short way’ home along the dirt road along the Playa Blanca that connects near the airport. Apparently he thought that it would be a smoother ride in Jim’s RAV 4, but alas the accordion bumps and dips and sways were oblivious to the car model and we drove very slowly. We hear that this road will soon be paved which is will really speed up traffic through the small villages at the northern end of the Playa Blanca and change the character of the area in the name of progress
Lest all work make the Audleys dull, we have had several adventures. We visited La Chole in the tiny hamlet of Soledad de Maciel which is a small fishing village that hasn’t changed much in 3000 years except for the recent uncovering of the biggest archeological find in the state of Guerrero in Mexico. It covers 10 square kilometers and according to our guide, Lily, the paleontologist wife of the head archeologist, La Chole was a major city site in 300 BC (Tepoztecos culture), 200 AD (Cuitlatecos) and in 1300 AD (Tomiles) with populations moving in and out of this city due to changes in water availability. So far three pyramids have been discovered, one of which has five temples as well as a plaza and ball court. Most of the artifacts found to date are being catalogued in Mexico City but will return to a museum which is being built near the site.
Susan stops by El Refugio de Potosi when possible. A trip to the lookout tower when the roble (bright yellow blossomed trees) and the sister trees the magenta-pink primaveras were blooming) was spectacular – as if these brilliant Mexican colors had been splashed across the impressive landscape. An usual sight during this dry season, a bonus from the deep rains. Laurel and I also made leaf castings with several children and other curious adults, but alas though the vein patterns were terrific, the mix of cement was not, and so we will try again as we are hoping that perfecting these leaves might inspire a saleable craft in the gift shop of El Refugio for the women in Los Farallones and Los Llanitos. I also met the sanctuary veterinarian Jorge Gusman and his wife, Marta who will be the environmental educator at El Refugio and we plan to meet more frequently to flesh out a curriculum. Most of all I am inspired by the whole sanctuary setting, and am always intrigued by which animals have been rescued, released or will become permanent residents of this lovely space.
We celebrated our 42nd anniversary and had planned a low key dinner out. However, at noon when Jim was knee deep digging drainage ditches, and Susan was being a Mexican maid cleaning, sweeping, and scrubbing, suddenly through the bathroom door which currently has the fish flag from Vancouver as a door there appeared a mariachi trio of guitar players all decked out in sparkling white long pants and shoes and long sleeved red shirts to serenade us! Otto had planned this surprise and apparently there was some confusion that they thought they were singing for a wedding party—thus the special outfits. In any event, they sang their hearts/corazons out with much crooning and arching of eyebrows, while two dirty, sweaty recipients enjoyed every note! We did go to dinner on La Ropa overlooking Zihauntenjo Bay. The restaurant El Manglar, we were seeking was closed so we headed up the mountain, parked at a 25 degree angle and clamored into a huge restaurant with an enormous, funky slightly wavy deck perched on a cliff and sat at the very edge for dinner – sort of Americanized Mexican but tasty and endearing as the owner treated us to dessert and wine in honor of the occasion. Life is good!
The remaining chunk of time has been related to community. The number of delinquent crimes has slowly been inching upward in the past year and then coupled with some hold-ups near the cemetery/pantheon and in the parking lot of El Refugio as well as a reported rape on the beach, the community held an open meeting to share concerns and to find out what could be done. Tourist business at the enrammadas, the refugio, La Chole, Petatlan and even the nature trail in Ixtapa had all been effected, and high level meetings had taken place to ask for a more constant police presence as well as to put a halt to these incidents. The Gringo community was eager to learn how they could protect themselves as well as how to better support the Policia Federales assigned from both Zihatanejo and Petatlan. Much information was exchanged, and a security committee was formed to make recommendations and share the procedures to follow when endangered or concerned. Jim offered to join, and then after several other men joined in, a female point of view was desirable and so Jim and I are now learning unbelievable amounts regarding Mexican culture, bureaucracy, and who harbors what beliefs. The most fascinating member on this committee is Ali Zerriferi, a Moroccan-born, Canadian-American raised, and Mexican-wed storyteller who acts as the ‘crazy glue’ smoozing between the Mexican and the Gringo factions. So far we’ve had three meetings, published the minutes and are making good progress on creating procedures that we believe will work for everyone from a community watch group/list to how to contact help and what information will be needed in Spanish. The most interesting meeting was held with Petatlan Commandante Flores at the very public La Condesa enrramada at 4:00 in the afternoon. Four tables had been placed end to end making a long boardroom (albeit plastic) table, and the committee plus representatives from other organizations and interests attended with Ivette as translator., At about ten after 4:00, the Tourista Policia in their lime green shirts, vests and weaponry began to edge the entrances into La Condesa, and then a massive bodyguard in his navy-black uniform, bullet proof vest and very large machine gun appeared aside Commandante Flores, who also cradled a formidable weapon with a large banana clip in his lap for the entire meeting. Now the Commandante is a wiry, lean and tough hombre who smiles a Cheshire cat grin, and whose eyes constantly dart about taking in all details. He shared his plan for increased protection, the re-establishment of the manned station at the Barra (the Zihautanejo Commandante will reopen the station at the other end in Los Achotes) and explained the three levels of police in the Mexican system. When he was done, several asked questions. Jim wanted to know how to best let the police know one was in danger with minimal Spanish. The Commandante explained that by calling 066 (comparable to 911) the request would be radioed to all police on duty, and that the nearest unit would respond once a location was given. With some persistence trying to relay our isolation on rancho Loma Bonita, Jim pressed on until finally Commandante resolved the issue by declaring one should simply say the name of their location and use his last name – thus our call for help would be Loma Bonita - Flores and we could call his personal cellphone if need be! Fortunately no one came to assasinate the Commandante during our meeting (though we were prepared to dive under the table if need be) . So for now the police presence is most evident, and we drive by with waves of appreciation and occasional gifts of sabritos and refrescoes to break up our protectors’ tedium.
Ranch partners Scott Parker and James Maddox have arrived for a stay and brought additional insect repellent – though the mosquitoes seem to be abating as we return to a drier season.The Domino Pleno document signed by almost 100 of the ejido owners at the very first convening of this group (an unheard of feat in ejido transfer of land) and thus giving Ivette ownership and the ability to retitle Loma Bonita to its individual shareholders had been an incredible accomplishment. She will now push the document through the federal government to completion within the year we hope. So the partners banter about with possibilities of corporations, trusts and/or individual ownership and gather information to see what might benefit us all in the long run.
Sort of a scattered and all-too long blog entry this time around, but reflective of the many issues and interests that consume our time while here, but hopefully there will be something of interest to each reader should you make it through page four.. P.S. Pictures from 2009 are accessible on the blog, we have attached a smattering of pictures to the email notification that alerted you of this blog entry – just so you know we are alive and well!
The Good, The Bad & The Ugly #2
February 7th, 2010The Good, the Bad and the Ugly
The past two weeks or so have been spent settling in to life at Loma Bonita with a few roadblocks along the way just to make sure we are prepared for the ‘Mexican Way’ of doing or not doing things.
After 9 days of driving, Jim’s back gave out so that he was’ listing’ to the side. Our friend, Laurel, urged him to establish contact with a local, reliable doctor, and so we went to see Dr. Eliseo Serrano in Coacayul the next day. Our Mexican doctor is a very lovely man who spent a good deal of time with Jim, and finally recommended a series of three shots over four days along with muscle relaxants and pain killers. Jim agreed,, and so on Saturday and Sunday we rang Dr. Serrano’s bell and he came down to do the injections and to take note of his progress. Having found out that he loved the game of baseball, and was involved with the children’s teams in Coacayul, Susan realized that she had found the perfect recipient for the beloved traveling set of balls, bats, gloves, batter’s helmet, catcher’s mask, chest and shin guards all in a duffle bag . This baseball set had been given by Wayne Reichart from Benchmark a year ago, and it was important to find the proper home for it as it was a sentimental gift representing Wayne’s first team purchase as the sports director at Benchmark School many years ago. As Dr. Serrano gave so generously of his services, it was good to be able to give back. Dr. Serrano was visibly delighted with the used, but cherished equipment and it will probably be used to form an additional team. Jim is now upright once again. Unfortunately Susan was hit with a wicked bout of Montezuma’s Revenge just as Jim was on the mend, but with the miracles of Ciproflaxin all was soon well again. We were finally ready to start living in Mexico.
Our house is in better repair due to the presence of our caretaker, Otto; however Susan has noted that a bachelor living here with his three cats and sweeping once a week doesn’t quite hack it. So there has been much pulling out of everything to clean behind, and washing of slipcovers, and such but it is finally beginning to feel reclaimed. Otto continues to live in the guest room until his next living space is available. Jim has enjoyed Otto’s company and help with the lighting system as well as the alarm system which includes lots of outdoor lights and sirens as well as much wizardry. Susan finds that having a man who enjoys cooking has given her a sous chef of sorts, and we have gone to bed to the aromas of baking bread and apple pies. The 5:00 PM appearance of a perfect Cosmo sans flower is another bonus.
In addition, Otto’s year round presence has given us more knowledge of how the house works throughout the various extremities of the weather. It was hard to believe that his description of the leaks in the roof and through the windows were as ferocious as he described. However, we, too, experienced the phenomena over a 72 hour period this week. It has never rained more than a countable number of drops in the years that we have been coming; and in addition, the locals tell us that it hasn’t significantly rained in February in over 30 years. Our gardener and other local workers kept looking at the sky and signs of nature predicting rain, but we just scoffed until a deluge brought down an inch an hour in the first six hours and then tapered off for a total accumulation of 18 inches at Loma Bonita which also filled the roads and normally empty drainage canals of the Ixtapa/ Zihautanejo area. Happily, our house is well situated and crowned so the perimeter was dry. But, we spent the first day shifting furniture to dry spaces or covering with tarps as well as chalk marking the tejas roof tiles that became saturated and began to drip. Soon Jim realized that there was a pattern to the tiles that leaked so that future adjustments could be made. Also the waterfall of rain coming off all three sides of the roof created some exceptional gullies as it poured from the veranda and ran down hill. Jim noted the damage from last summer’s rains, but now knew that his plan for taking the water away from the house needed to be ramped up substantially.There was so much rain that as we were driving home one evening fish were jumping in the road! The great advantage of this unexpected abundance of water is that all of the plants and grasses are now a verdant green and the trees are thriving from the unexpected dry season deep watering.
The other major advantage is that the bar of sand that separates the fresh water lagoon from the ocean at the Barra (hence bar of sand) de Potosi was forced to open belatedly. The relationship between the lagoon and the ocean is a critical one for the community that lives here as there is a period where the brackish water becomes a breeding ground for the families who make their living from harvesting shrimp, and there is a time when the lagoon dries out and creates great salt flats for other families to collect and sell. It’s a delicate balance, and when the natural ebb and flow of these two bodies of water do not open, the lagoon water becomes a stagnant, mosquito haven driving customers away from the outdoor enramadas and restaurants in the village. In addition, mosquitoes breed dengue fever and other nasty diseases. So the rains helped raise the level enough to ‘open the Barra’ by 3:00 AM on Friday morning, and there was much rejoicing – as well as a huge stench from all the garbage (thrown away by the tourists from Mexico City) that had backed up over the months and now went out to sea and caused havoc with the wildlife. Life is trying to get back to normal though the breezes are still ‘backwards’ coming from the mountains in the morning (instead of late in the day).
Another huge concern has been security and safety as there has been sufficient incidents in our area to cause alarm. In our Guerrero state area which is statistically among the safest in Mexico, there has been an outbreak of sporadic crimes (e.g. the vandalism of our home and car last April, some hold-ups of tourists along the Los Achotes road for money and jewelry, and a wounding of a family from Petatlan as well as a rape of a woman on her honeymoon on the beach). All of these incidents when compounded have rallied the community and we have increased police presence along many talks and plans materializing for short and long term plans to secure our safety. We do not feel as if we are in any more danger than if we were to have a night our in Philadelphia, and indeed, the statistics are much harsher in Philly. But we are at a disadvantage in clear communications when incidents occur with language and protocol barriers. So a community meeting was held yesterday with leaders of the community, representatives of the government and police to clarify what had actually happened (from heresay), to set up stronger linkage between the community and the police and to heighten individual’s awareness of what proactive steps they could take to protect themselves. Jim and Susan are now on a committee to recommend actions for the community and further steps to be taken with the authorities to carry through on their promises.
The increased police presence has certainly been to our advantage as the propane gas truck came to make a delivery, and the gardener/worker, Julio, happened to be here and noted that our new tanks were only half filled. Susan had spontaneously gifted the gas workers with a bunch of coconuts (from Eflaco’s clearing of ten palm trees earlier that morning). When the gas truck deliverymen drove gleefully up to the gate, they were met by a truck full of armed, vested police who thought it unusual for a gas truck to be on what was once ejido land. So the police stopped the truck, the men looked very guilty and offered the police the coconuts as the police took down all of their information. Then two of the police walked in to check out their story. We were delighted with the police follow through, and that they now knew where we are. When Jim returned, he called the gas company and the workers returned with very full tanks!
We have been to the new restaurant on the beach, LaGartos, where Leo is now assisting, twice. The first time was to catch up with our friend, Laurel and her amazing venture with El Refugio de Potosi (the wild life sanctuary). The second visit was for Jim’s birthday (after the storm) and with Laurel, Tom List and his wife, Suzanne Statler (ranch partners down for the week), Ivette and Patricio…and a fine time was had by all!
It has been great fun to renew our friendship with Tom and Suzanne over dinner at our home, the birthday dinner, a tour of the progress of archeological dig at La Chola near Maciel de Sol, and a finale bonfire picnic on the beach with Patricio and Ivette last night including hotdogs, s’mores, and fireworks plus the magnificence of the myriads of stars in the sky.
We finally carved out time to tour El Refugio and were quite overwhelmed with what has so artfully been created just up the road from Loma Bonita. When we left last April the many buildings were nearing completion, the plants and animals were being gathered, but to see it altogether is remarkable. The huge viewing tower gives scale and scope to the diversity of this niche located on the Pacific ocean yet, embraced by the Sierra Madre Mountains. The welcoming building has tour guides at the ready, a lovely gift shop, a video introduction and eight large tanks displaying the various insects, snakes, and such that are commonly found in this part of the world. The guides patiently describe the good and the bad of each creature; striving to eliminate the many myths that have grown up around the creatures. E,g, the Madre de Alacran (the mother of scorpions) which is about the size of a human hand actually eats scorpions, and does not produce scorpions as many think. After this introduction, the tour ambles down the thorn forest pathways where at each turn there is yet another animal with which to interface. The macaws and parrots, that are so endangered, camp under palapa (palm frond) roosts and the many local varieties of hummingbirds feast at rows of feeders. There are spaces for other local birds, iguanas, jaguarundis (the puma like cats), coatimundi, raccoons, turtles, and butterflies- all creatures large and small. As a sanctuary, the Refugio takes in all sorts of injured or wild animals that people attempted to domesticate (but couldn’t) and seeks to get them whole enough to release. Those animals that cannot survive on their own are taken care of for life and serve as teaching examples to the many school groups and families that visit. The birds with the shot off wings, and the elegant, endangered iguanas in their habitats are gentle reminders of over hunting these creatures for food. The four month old baby raccoon that so enchanted everyone at the welcome center, will be put in with the wild raccoons on Monday to learn how to really be a wild raccoon. Of the two sea turtles that were brought in last week with some unknown infection; one has died and will be autopsied to determine what is happening to the sea turtle population, and the other seems to have slowly responded to the antibiotics. So the animal population shifts and changes each week, and the local Mexicans are learning to value those animals in their midst with whom they share this space. It has been wonderful to witness the evolution of Laurel’s dream as well as her uncanny ability to involve so many people with whatever talents they possess.
Our own animal story of the week was the unexpected arrival of a feral white cat who had hoped to become a part of Otto’s three cat family. Susan came out to start breakfast, and heard mewing from behind the stove – thus explaining the sudden ‘thump in the night’. The stove was pulled out, and the cat was freed but hung around, and tried desperately to make friends in exchange for food. The next night the cat spent the night in the trash (presumably rooting about for food, and became more bold in meowing to eat. Finally after building some trust (alas) with Otto, he put food in the back of his cat carrier, and trapped the cat. Jim and I drove it to its new destination the SPCA in Zihautanejo.
We hear that our friends on the East Coast are enduring an incredibly, snowy winter and we hope you are all taking this cold weather in your usual stride, reading lots of good books and finding ways to get togetherl We miss you all, and wish we could be in two places at once!
Last Road Trip to Zihaut 2010
January 25th, 2010We departed from Rose Valley on Saturday, January 9th at 2:30 PM for the absolutely, positively, no-way-another road trip to Zihautanejo. Fortunately, my sister-in-law and Jonathan graciously held dinner in their lovely home in Roanoke, Virginia until our arrival at 10:00 PM. It was a soft landing for a rigorous day; so the fine meal and extra comfy bed was doubly appreciated. In the morning, our niece Stephanie and 14 year old drop-dead, gorgeous Katie and the 7 year old whirling, dervish Star Wars affinciniado , Stephen joined us for breakfast.
The journey continued on through the eastern edge of Tennessee, and across the corner of Georgia until we found room at an inn in Fort Payne, Alabama. The softly chewed vowels of the South became the norm as the check-in counter person (originally from Horsham, PA) expounded upon the advantages of living in Alabama. Apparently the number one benefit is that the school tax is $15 per family per year. Perhaps WSSD should send a contingency down to see how they do it (or rather all the school services that they eliminate). As the clerk said, my sons went through Alabama public schools, then went onto Auburn and are now teaching in their childhood classrooms. Of course, she did add that the schools had recently been closed because of the cold snap – there is no heating system in the buildings…a big savings. Also I guess its important to note that Alabama schools consistently rank in the bottom five of the worst schools in the nation.
The next day we were off across Alabama, Mississippi and to a night on the town in New Orleans! The slow rate of recovery from the ravages of Kristina was more and more evident as we grew closer to the city. Some buildings have been completely restored, while others are boarded up and appear as if no one will ever have the time, money or motivation to tackle such renovations. Jim found a very old, boutique hotel, the Olivier House in the French Quarter, just off Bourbon Street for the night. It was originally owned by Madam Olivier who ultimately bought three adjoining residences across from the Opera House in the mid 1800’s and used it as her private home. It was converted into a hotel in the 1970’s and probably has not seen much attention since that point – so it was just a shade on the side of entering seediness. However, the rooms were clean, the staff quirky, and the service gentile…and it was only for one night .We finally got a chance to stretch our legs, and strolled the fabled streets. The bitter cold temperature had frozen most of the palms and other vegetation, so the landscape in Jackson Square was a little other worldly. Only the hardiest of street entertainers were out and about hustling the tourists; but of course, a comely clown with charm and flattery presented me with a balloon flower (that also popped as the night progressed). After much hemming and hawing, we decided to dine at the Court of Two Sisters, where an insular, and ever onward soldier-like Thomas was our waiter. Apparently he had lost everything with Kristina, and at retirement age was marching forward in his 30 year long service at this renown restaurant . It became a challenge to coax Thomas into interacting; he prepared our Caesar salad and finished off with a flaming dessert almost robotically in spite of our charms. We capped the night off at renown jazz venue, Preservation Hall. Due to light crowds, we had front row seats and closed the show which featured an awesome quintet. We especially enjoyed the trombone player, a stocky black fellow, who played with great flair and energy coaxing an amazing variety of hoots, grunts and mellifluous sounds from his instrument. He captured the stage with his alternating dipping, upward reaching, continuously gyrating extensions. Despite Susan’s “ permission” ( yeah right!) Jim restrained himself from visiting the Gentleman’s clubs and satiated with good food and outstanding jazz, we retired to the Oliver House for the night, where the bedbugs do bite. Beignets and café au lait at Café du Monde completed our whirlwind stay in the Big Easy.
The fourth day promised another soft landing if we could make it to San Antonio to stay with Jim’s sister, Barbara. So we drove and drove, and knew we were in Texas as soon as the cars started barreling past us regardless of our speed. Barbara was there to greet us in her lovely historical home in the King William neighborhood along the San Antonio River. It was a bittersweet stay (for us) as Charlie and Barbara will be moving to Houston in April, where Charlie has secured a wonderful position at the University of Texas hospital and teaching staff, and where Barbara will no doubt make her mark, yet again, in another city with her art work. One highlight of our stay in San Antonio was to stroll a bit of the Riverwalk to a restaurant where Barbara’s latest series of art work was hung. Last year, she had been captivated by the light and forms that are created along the Riverwalk, and began photographing what had always been there but yet had not been seen – and the resultant, enlarged and digitalized paintings are quite spectacular. It was great fun to walk after seeing the artwork and finding possible pieces of our own. Lucky for us, Barbara gifted us with a copy of ‘Gate 6’ – another treasure in our art collection. Lucky for me, is that after many yearly invitations to join her painting trips to Montfacon in Limoux, France and finding that the upcoming May trip would be her last, Jim offered to send me! I am still in shock that such a magnificent journey awaits me. We shared a wonderful ‘birthday’ meal (for the Aquarians, Barbara and Jim) at Boudros on the Riverwalk, and then drove to the new installation of the solar lit fish under the bridge further up the San Antonio River. It was a fine visit, and we feel fortunate that we’ve had so many good times in the heart of San Antonio with Barbara and Charlie.
The next morning we found a space for the egg incubator that our friend, Laurel had had shipped to San Antonio, gritted our teeth and headed off for the border. So many friends and relatives had expressed great concern for this particular journey heightened by the media coverage of all the border wars and desperation of the Mexicans. We had not been able to obtain Philadelphia Mexican Consulate approval for our ‘goods’, and so we had made our own list of what we were carrying (in Spanish and English). Jim had called the Consulate in San Antonio who had informed us as to the rules as to what we could take, the items that would carry a duty, and what items we could claim as personal. We arrived at Piedras Negros/ Eagle Pass around 1:00 PM and were met by four very friendly agents who quickly approved our list, charged us $26 duty (we were expecting around $350) and stamped our list; then pointed us to where to get our immigration FM3 visas stamped and we were on our way within a hour – record time!
We continued down the familiar entry road and headed toward Monclova, the nearest city that we could make by nightfall. Monclova is an industrial, primarily steel making city in the state of Coahilla with little charm or grace, but many jobs – an anomaly in Mexico.
Instead of staying at the Americanized Comfort Inn, and perhaps we were in such high spirits after completing the easiest crossing yet, we opted to drive to Centro Monclova and stayed at the very old Hotel Olympia across from the townsquare that featured a huge, rather clunky iron crucible (presumably from one of the factories) that also doubled as a fountain featured (in warmer weather). We were treated to a group of young teenagers presumably practicing their dances for an upcoming Cinquecintera, and fascinated not only with their energy, but moreso with their delight in mastering complicated, cultural dances. My favorite was the one where the boys each whipped out a machete in each hand and whirled, twirled and clashed these workman’s tools in time to the music. We walked to dinner having been assured that there were many fine restaurants on Blvd. Papas just a few blocks away. The few blocks became many blocks and as dusk was fast approaching we kept asking every 4 or 5 blocks if we were headed in the right direction, always receiving assurances that our destination was just a few blocks more. Finally as night fell, we reach the main highway, crossed its many lanes, and spotted a restaurant where we had a fine meal. We took a taxi back to the hotel. Breakfast at the hotel the next morning was a delight with many Mexicans greeting us merrily as well as our pouring over Mexican newspaper for news – mostly the horrors of the Haitian earthquake.
The very cold weather combined with the rain in the usually dry season has been interesting to note. The Mexicans in this northern area and in the mountains are really not prepared for such plunging temperatures, and the infrastructure surely could not accommodate more than a cloudburst without bringing parts of city traffic to a standstill. As we approached Zecataca , it snowed! There were parents, mostly fathers, who had driven out to the highways and stopped to show their children what snow was. Reportedly the last snow was 30 years ago! Snowballs and snow angels became the order and phenomena of the day. Some made small snowmen which were carried back to their homes on top of their cars! The TV news was appealing for blankets and warm clothes to be sent to the mountain towns as people live in houses with no heat, and were never prepared for the length of this bone chilling cold.
The drive to Zacatecas was much improved from two years ago. The country wide Ruta 2010 effort to have widened and durable roads has made driving much more pleasant – as long as one stays on cuotas/toll roads. Jim had determined that the best value for the night would be to stay in what was once a nunnery in the Centro area of Zacateca. The hard part was finding it with all of the one way streets on this very steep, mountainside colonial city. At one point we stopped and asked a police man (we could have sworn it was the same one who gave us the 900 pesos ticket two years ago for ‘not seeing the (nonexistent) sign that forbade pulling trailers on the particular section of the highway we were on at the time. In any event, he very courteously advised the torturous route making sure we should turn right at the Ban Norte sign (our bank). I finally spot the sign high in the air and we go down an alley way, make a few more turns and amazingly arrive at La Condesa – which turned out to be a great find – probably because it cannot be found. Our porter was yet another young Mexican by heritage, but born in California who was deported on his 18th birthday and came home to live with his grandmother in Zacateca to start over.
We wove our way out of the puzzling streets of Zacatecas and headed toward Guadalajara, the second largest city in Mexico. This route would take us into new territory and give us a chance to experience a drive down the Pacific Coast. We find that Guadalajara actually encompasses the cities of Guadalajara, Zapopan, Tonala and Tlaquepaque, and as we arrive on a Saturday afternoon the whole experience is quite overwhelming for me in terms of people, sights, and smells. I am paralyzed in making any rational decisions whatsoever. Jim has opted, once again, to head for the heart or the Centro of the city where we stay at Hotel Frances, the oldest, continuous hotel in Mexico which will celebrate 400 years in May. It was originally a place for short term traders to stay as they went to Mexico City, and where middlemen could barter reduced prices by meeting the suppliers before they reached their primary market. It was a lovely hotel in a building that reflected its heritage and historic detail as well as the many remodeling efforts by its previous owners the Oliveros brothers – one of whom has a daughter who is a Pettyt Officer in the United States Navy! It was also the on location set for the 1983 Charles Bronson movie “The Evil That Men Do”. We stayed in the penthouse suite which in true Mexican style had its peculiarity of a large, emerald green Jacuzzi IN the master bedroom with classical stained glass Venus type models surrounding the tub. The actual bathroom was three rather large compartments in a separate room behind the no-getting-around-the-fact that a giant Jacuzzi was next to your king sized bed! We took a stroll through the Centro area centerpieced by the iconic Cathedral whose twin steeples had fallen in an 1848 earthquake and were replaced with much higher ones adorned with canary yellow tiles. We stopped to admire the Rotonda de los Jaliscenses Illustres where twenty of the state’s favorite writers, architects, revolutionaries, educators, and artists are buried and honored under their life-size statues. We pass by some of the maharachi/ cowboy bands that originated in this state of Jalisco – all competing for the possibility of being hired for an event. We walk through blocks that are crammed with only shoe stores or fabric shops on the way to the much ballyhooed restaurant, La Chata, which we have been told is ‘comida tipica’. As we wait to gain a seat, I watch the many white uniformed ladies bustling about putting the dinners together, and whisper to Jim that the food looks way too tipico –but just then we are called to a table where I have perhaps one of the most mediocre of Mexican meals in my entire life. It is loud, the food is lukewarm, and my thoughts of a quiet, intimate dinner dissolve. The next morning we set out to explore Guadalajara Centro, but it is an all too quiet Sunday and the famous market at the Plaza Tapatia is closed. However, the walk from the hotel to the plaza is quite the loveliest allee of trees with gardens, fountains, and other noteworthy plazas strategically placed. We tour the regional Museo/Museum where Jim is inspired with the pre-Columbian artifacts representing daily life. We crawl through the streets and alleyways to find ‘treasures’. We engage in conversation with a buyer for a museum in Vancouver, BC who tips us off as to specific museum-gift shop quality vendors. Jim buys many ‘chachkas’ while I am thinking only of the sparse surface areas in our home and the need for many shelves as well as the dusting and cleaning of these new objects. (As of this writing they are still wrapped in their papers.) We have a wonderful lunch at an outdoor stall where all the people are friendly and happy to be a part of such a lively street fair. Alas we stay too long at the proverbial fair, and when we start to leave by 4:00 we are faced with a minimal four hour drive to our next destination of Colima, and not a clue as to how to get out of and around this part of the city which is opposite from where we really want to go. Our GPS has wonderful information while within the city limits, but does not recognize any of the new roads from Ruta 2010 and so we wander and scheme until dusk when we are headed in the right direction on the high speed road south to Colima. Unfortunately there are more mountains to cross, and the high speed road often abruptly changes to two lanes and the dreaded doble-semi remolques (two semi trucks strung together) lurk ominously and laboriously ahead just daring those Mexican drivers to pass them in the no passing zones. It is very nerve racking driving. Jim’s back is beginning to warn him that its muscles don’t like being in the same position for such a long time. We finally arrive at Colima with our first taste of the tropical climate that we have been anticipating. I have believed the travel guide’s lovely description of Hotel Buena Aventura just across from the Jardin Nunez and navigate Jim towards that place of refuge. Unfortunately it personifies seediness – but we are so tired that we can’t look any further. We dine at a local spot and have the largest torta ever, and enjoy the people watching. Finding breakfast the next day is challenging, but after we find a parking lot for the car and trailer Jim by-passes Hotel Cebollas outdoor restaurant having been put off by the Best Western sign and American prices, and we go to the other side of the square for a lousy breakfast that even charges for the milk for our coffee. Oh well, penny wise and pound foolish, we are on our way for the last day of travel for this journey.
From Colima we want to follow the Pacific Highway along the coast of the states of Michoacan and finally Guerrero (where we live). We spot our first glimpse of the Pacific, and finally can smell the saltwater and revel in the tropical plants. Its so exciting! We’re almost there! At one point we see the most amazing gated entrance ever and after several more miles see its mate. In between grows a virgin forest. The gates are purely ornamental and it is apparent that the only way in and out is by helicopter – most likely a drug lord’s retreat. Eight hours later we are still maneuvering around the mountain hair pin turns – all 1300 + of them and the glimpses of the ocean although initially spectacular are seeming rather mundane. The topes/speedbumps are becoming more frequent – one at the beginning and end of each village as we approach Lazaro Cardenas – and some villages have interspersed them throughout the distance of their town. Jim’s back and my butt are feeling each rise and fall and it is no longer any fun to s-curve over the topes so that the trailer hitch will not scrape. Finally we spot the lights of Ixtapa in the distance, and we are on familiar ground. We cross the bridge from Ixtapa to Zihautanejo then make the turn onto the east to west Acapulco Highway 200 (having just been on the north to south Acapulco Highway 200 through Coacayul, Los Almendros, Los Pozos, until we see the sign for our turn at Los Achotes to Los Llantos to Rancho Loma Bonita where we drive in to let our caretaker, Otto know that we have arrived. It is too late to unpack our bedding, and we are exhausted so we find a room at Bernie’s B & B on the Playa Blanca. (Last year, it was reported that Bernie had sold his beachfront property with its three rentable B & B spaces to a Harley Davidson dealer and his family; apparently the deal fell through and Bernie used their deposit to pay off his Zihaut house, buy a car and re-establish his business on the beach.) We had a lovely, leisurely breakfast, then headed into Zihaut to find out what papers we needed to renew our Fm3’s. The new agent at immigration was most helpful and took time to explain all the new laws that will take effect in May 2010 – most to our favor. We returned to Loma Bonita to set up our bedroom, and were treated to a lovely dinner prepared by Otto. It was wonderful to be watching the sunset at our home and to catch up on all of the changes in our nine month absence. His three cats love living in this house, and have kept it free of many mice and snakes in our absence, and even the birds are learning to co-exist with the cats – though both species keep their distance.
The time since our arrival has been a dizzying array of cleaning, sorting, screening, shopping for supplies, and quick hellos (with promises to spend time with) what seem like old friends. Jim’s back finally gave out as he was listing rather seriously to the right, and Laurel convinced him to see Dr. Serrano in Coacayul. So he has undergone a series of three shots over three days to relax his muscles along with pills to relieve the inflammation and the pain. Today, on this Sunday morning he struggled for several hours to get upright – but we went for the third shot today (what other doctor would open his doors on a Sunday, no less!) and Jim seems to be out and about this afternoon, as we write this first letter from Mexico. There is much more to share, but the saga of the journey is enough (or way too much) to let you know that we have arrived safely and that we are again impressed with the openness and cordiality of the Mexicans we have met along the way.
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The grass is greener…
April 15th, 2009Life on Loma Bonita
March 20th, 2009Our time on Loma Bonita seems to be hurtling toward a finish in about ten days. Closing out the house is especially hectic as the parameters change each year. We acquire more ‘stuff’ for the house, accomplish a few projects, and make more friends to see before we leave. We still do not have screens which means that everything made from cloth has to be secured from the mice and the insects. However, we do have our lovely, newly painted security gates making it somewhat more difficult for people and larger beasts to enter the house. So we are gearing ourselves for much partying this weekend, and then the big shut down.
My sister Sarah’s friends, Lizann and Kolin, from Vancouver, Canada were persistent in tracking us down during their two week stay in the Zihautanejo area, and we enjoyed a fine dinner together at Leo’s as well as the opportunity to show them our property on the ranch. Hey explained that the reason I have heard little from Sarah is her involvement with a performance piece in Vancouver involving ice skating!
Mario Gomez and his, wife Soledad, delivered out table/mesa, six chairs/sillas and two endtables, as promised towards the end of the first week in March. Jim has spent many days, protecting the wood from insects, sealing it, staining it and then varnishing it. All of his labor has resulted in a very fine table (that exceeded our expectations), warm glowing chairs and end tables that will also store more ‘stuff’. We will post their picture soon along with Mario’s masterpiece. After a visit with us, Mario took Soledad to the Barra for her very first glimpse of the ocean! It was was four and a half hour drive from Cuanajo to here, and then again back – so we were pleased that they took some time to smell the proverbial roses.
Jim went fishing early one morning with Miguey and Guitte and brought back some very tasty fish for dinner. He caught the three largest ones for that day, but gave them to the men to sell. We certainly will miss the fresh seafood for which this region is well known.
We are slowly expanding the number and types of extraordinary people who tend to live in this area of Zihuatanejo. The Casitas de Petosi is a complex of six homes built by an architect of some renown on the Playa Blanca. We had driven by the very handsome stone wall many a time, and have met some of the residents on other occasions, Bob and Jane Nagel of Denver, Colorado invited us for cocktails which lasted four hours! The homes are almost all concrete and very organic with polished concrete sinks and counters, floors, storage spaces all interspersed with river stones woven into attractive designs to delineate one section from another. Our friend, Laurel Patrick, who once lived there designed all the gardens that weave through and give privacy to each home. Of course, there are fountains, and there is a pool abutting the beach underneath a palapa roof which shelters bans/bathrooms, showers, and a barbeque area. All very posh and luscious.
Also present at the cocktail party was Franca Fracchetti, a lovely Italian woman from Milan, who married an American engraver by the single, only name of Joseph. They had lived in Cody, Wyoming where Franca has a small, but renown restaurant, and Joseph made bronzes and did engravings for antique firearms and such. We end up at Franca and Joseph home on the Playa nother night for scrumptious dinner of lasagna (made with béchamel sauce, not ricotta) and other wonderful treats. Jim was tasked to help her with a computer problem, while I saw all of Joseph’s work in photos that were stored on his computer. Another interesting evening.
Our maestro tile layer, Rafael Galindos, his wife Alma and their three daughters, Nancy (15), Sandy (13) and Odalys (8) arrived at 10 AM on Sunday for a day of ‘tranquillity’. We had wonderful ceviche and guacamole in the morning, and then barbequed a huge sierra/mackerel and a smaller hauchinago/red snapper in the afternoon followed by flan. I was a little worried that such a tranquil day would be terribly boring for the girls. We hiked up to Rio’s house on Mango Madness where Ruffino was having a huge barbecue for his extended family. They were cooking a whole pig which had been cut into pieces, and had been boiling over an open fire in a copper pan that was at least 4 foot in diameter for house and still had several to go. So the girls hooked up with the children there for a bit, and when we returned we had games and paper with which Odalys drew pictures to hang on all of our bare walls. Although it was tranquil for the Galindos, we were exhausted from the intensity of communicating only in Spanish for the day. I am sure that I missed more than 50% of what transpired and am hoping that I gleaned enough from the remaining 50%.
That evening I had a movie date with my nephew Patricio. We had planned to watch “Whale Rider” as he was fascinated with the whales/ballenas that had come into the Playa Blanca beach for several weeks. Patricio had made numerous snacks, and set up the viewing site and we had a fine time – especially when the little girl actually rides the whale. However, Patricio did not like the grumpy grandfather and thought he was all wrong in thinking that only males could be chiefs.
We are having a fiesta on Saturday night to honor those eleven people who have helped us get our home to this livable point. Leo will cook the meal from botanas/appetizers of shrimp and quesadillas requeson (a special cheese) to the laborious, but delicious hauchinago a la talla and drunken plaintains. It should be fun!
On Sunday we will go to the Playa Association fundraiser at our friends, Toby and Claudio’s B&B Villa Don Manual. After several years of the residents along the playa and along the Los Achotes road banding together, they have elected Toby, a Mexican, as their president. A wise choice as he has the gregarious ability to bring both the Mexican and the North American communities together. His big thrust so far has been to usehis political clout to have large blue barrels dotting the road for visitors to discard their trash as well as to have regularly scheduled trash pickups. On Wednesday of this week, I went to a community trash pick up with the Playa Association. Within an hour over 75 people had bagged a garbage truckload plus had a good time working side by side gringos and Mexicanos alike.
I completed a speech screening of Leo’s younger son, four and a half year old David, this week And with the help of many have come up with a program that is intended to help him speak more clearly and correctly. Ivette translated my report and met with the parents when we shared the results. Laurel assisted me in administering the screening. At one point in the screening, I wanted David to identify the colors, He was so proud of knowing the English words for the colors that he burst forth loudly and clearly for each card, green, red, blue, etc. However, when I said “Su es Mexicana, Espanol por favor”, the words became a mumble-jumble once again.,Various other sources have advised me via e-mail. We are working under the assumption that something done to address the problem is better than nothing. The nearest speech pathologist is in Mexico City with exorbitant fees, and there is no one else within hundreds of miles to help. Apparently children with lags in speech development just limp along and parents hope that over time their speech will resolve into some form of communication. In any event, it was most interesting to me to work with a child in another language as well as to visit his Kindergarten class twice and see the wonderful, young teacher Angelina in command of this youngest of students
Jim has been putting the final pieces of the solar electric together. Figuring out how Cheque wired the house was a puzzle that is now whole. Testing the different parts of the house for electric has been magical, And today, with the remaining two pieces having arrived via DHL through Jim’s sister Barbara in San Antonio the system is complete. The four panels are gathering the sun and storing it in the twelve batteries and we will have light tonight. The occasional, whirring sound of the computerized generator makes it seem as though the house has a soul.
The days are getting progressively more warm; well into the low nineties each day. It has been an exceptionally dry season, and most leaves are tinged with brown from either lack of water or the fine film of sand-sifted dirt that covers everything. The mango crops on the surrounding farms look might slim, although the papaya ranch next to us has been irrigated and their plants are thriving. The shops in town seem to have had a very lean season most like due to the bad press urging people to stay away from Mexico. The undercurrents of the narcotico wars continue, and police are threatening to go on strike as their lives are worth more than the 200 pesos (about $16) they are paid per day. However, these are only bits and pieces of news we occasionally overhear, and not the reality of our days.
I am sending this blog from Laurel’s home amongst the clatter of her newly arrived and most beautiful parrots for the Refugio/Sanctuary. We’ve also been charged with collecting scorpions (fortunately Jim has been able to capture only one for the display so far) and snakes for her biologist to use in a display for the sanctuary.
We are enjoying our Nescafe lattes and squeezing our own juice from the enormous, but wonderful squeezer that Kat and Joseph contributed to the house. Kat also left her backgammon set, and Jim won the first four games, then I came up from behind and we are tied! No word yet when Jim will be willing to play the tie breaking game.
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